How odd it feels to be two days late in writing about my excursions! I’m sure I’ve keep you waiting, I’ve kept myself waiting! Wednesday was quite a busy day for me and after making it home, I had to save my energy for the pubs! I think I covered most of the city of Dublin that day but it was well worth it.
We only had two places to visit Wednesday, with our first stop being Kilmainham Gaol (pronounced jail). That’s right, I was behind bars all morning. Well, not so much behind bars considering the jail itself is quite old and the cells have heavy doors instead of bars. The bars I saw were the front gates
, and unlike most passing through that way in history, I got to leave through there as well. Kilmainham Gaol is now a museum but was once considered an important part of Irish history. It was first established in 1796, but most people will likely know it and associate it with the 1916 Easter Rising. You might also remember it from movies such as the original Italian Job, Boondock Saints, Michael Collins, In the Name of the Father, and The Wind that Shakes the Barley. The last three all center around the Irish history.
It was quite a heavy place to be in. We just studied the 1916 Rising this week and actually watched Michael Collins so my mind was on top of things. I really didn’t know much about the Easter rising before I came over, but I’m so intrigued by this time in history. It was a hard time for the Irish people, but what these men did lead way to the Irish Free State.
The gaol itself is panoramic in nature. It was built with the idea that wherever a guard was standing, he could see any and every prisoner. This idea was reinforced on the inmates themselves by a little carving on the back of their door. It’s oval shaped with a peep hole in the middle for the guards to look through. The carving represents as eye so that prisoners feel like
they are always being watched. Oddly enough, most multiple level shopping malls are set up this way so shoppers can see every store. What’s so meaningful about this gaol is that the fourteen leaders of the Easter Rising were brought here immediately following surrender, charged, convicted, and executed over a span of nine days. The last stop of the tour was in the yard where the prisoners were shot, military style. I felt very haunted out there.
These men that planned the rising were not military men, but civilians who were poets, mystics, and writers. They had a dream of the Irish Republic, free from Britain’s rule and they knew the only way to accomplish this goal was through a “blood sacrifice.” So, they staged a rebellion and failed. At first, the Irish people were angry at the men and wanted nothing to do with this, but once word of their executions got out, the people changed. These men achieved their idea of a “blood sacrifice.” The shedding of their blood lead way to the culmination of the War of Independence, which ultimately lead way to the Irish Free State.
As for the executions of the men, thirteen of them were blindfolded and shot at one end of the yard, now marked by a black cross. There were twelve British guards who had the pleasure of taking their revenge by killing these men, but every time, one guard had a blank bullet, only none of them knew who did. The reasoning was so every day the guards could leave and have a slight thought of hope that their’s wasn’t the bullet that
killed a man. On the other end of the yard also stand a black cross marking the spot where James Connelly was shot. Connelly had been seriously injured during the rising and wasn’t actually kept at the gaol because he was in the hospital. the last day of executions came and Connelly was too week to walk the end where everyone else had been killed. He was wheeled in on a stretcher through a door on the closer end and strapped to a chair because he couldn’t even stand. He was blindfolded and shot.
Outside of the gaol, across the street, stands a new memorial to the men. When we first got to the gaol, I
was the first one to walk over and figure it out. It is quite an amazing piece of work. There are fourteen statues all with black blindfolds on. There verdict is written at their feet. What I also found amazing was the artist put holes in each of the statues chest, of what I can only assume represent bullet holes. There is a little table in the middle with the proclamation of the Irish Republic that Patrick Pearse read on the front steps of the GPO before the rising. I encourage you to look up the 1916 Easter Rising and feel the depth of these men’s deaths.
We had a decent amount of time between the Gaol tour and our next stop, so I skipped lunch that day and headed over to the Chester Beatty Library. This was recommended to me by a reader and I have to say Thank you!! I spent a good hour and a half there taking everything in. The CBL is an art museum that houses a beautiful collection of manuscripts, prints, drawings, rare books, (and more) assembled by Sir Alfred Chester Beatty. It’s a very rich collection from areas such as Asia, the Middle East, Africa, and Europe. I could not believe so me of the things I was seeing. Since I didn’t have time to thoroughly see everything, I chose a few specific areas to look at more closely. The first level of the museum is dedicated to “The Art of the Book” and it holds many rare and very old books. There’s a exhibit of book binding spanning several hundred years, as well as the development of books and early, early manuscripts. The second level of the museum is dedicated to sacred texts, illuminated manuscripts, and paintings from different religions. I spent my time in the Christianity section starring at several pieces of the bible on papyrus . They were so simple and so very old, but so beautiful. I saw pieces of Genesis, Hebrews, and the four Gospels. I couldn’t read them of course and only knew what they were form the information cards, but I guess Sir Beatty’s collection includes many papyrus scripts of the Bible, and only certain ones are on exhibit.
It was quite fascinating.
The other piece of the Museum was a temporary exhibit on Rembrant. Several of his sketchings were on display. It was beautiful. I’ve never seen any of his work before, literally close enough to touch, and so I enjoyed walking through and seeing them. Several of his sketches were heavily focused on religion, and I think my favorite was entitled “Adam and Eve.” It’s a sad, but beautiful story in my eyes. As I said before, I didn’t have much time there so I’d like to go back if I can make it. If not, I’m still happy to have made it there.
Our last planned tour of the day was one I have been looking forward too since I found out about it. We went to the National Library for the The Life and Works of W.B. Yeats exhibit. It was absolutely worth it and I will be going back most likely on Sunday to do a little bit of research for a paper. Like most of the National things around here, it too is free. The exhibit was fascinating and if you go to the link, you can take a virtual tour. We actually had a guided tour that lasted about forty-five minutes and I’m glad. If I hadn’t had the tour, I would’ve been caught up in reading his original poetry manuscripts and not learned anything new about his life. Such as how Yeats’s was a horrible speller, wasn’t the best in school, but liked to run and actually won first place in a half-mile race once. What can I say… he was destined to be my favorite poet. The exhibit itself travels chronologically through Yeats’s life and has many of his original manuscripts and pieces of his life on display. The Library actually holds over 2000 pieces of writings and documents and pieces of Yeats’s life. I did learn one things about Yeats’s that I’d somehow passed over before and that was that he had been a member of the Golden Dawn, an occult. Odd to me and can’t say that I like it, but I do understand where his poetry from that time of life is coming from. One of the greatest pieces I set my eyes upon (besides the numerous original copies of (Easter 1916) was his Nobel Prize medal. How I wish cameras are allowed in some things!
The Yeats exhibit put me in a very literary mood and the Irish weather was quite erratic that day. It was wonderfully sunny so I decided on a stroll with some of the other girls. We headed down to Merrion Square, laid out in 1792, to see all of the National Buildings and the Georgian Houses. I know, I’ve been here four weeks already and hadn’t seen them! The doors were so fun and I really want a Georgian door now, bright yellow, for my house. We stopped by number 82, Yeats’s house for awhile, and then perused on down the street reading all the plaques and seeing what other aristocratic and famous figures had lived there. Around a few corners we ran into the family
home of Oscar Wilde and then slipped into Archbishop Ryan Park to see the famous statue of
Wilde. I won’t tell you that we had fun taking pictures with him, hence my face. I’ll also keep quiet the nickname that Dubliners have for him. Ok, I can’t. The statue is often referred to as ‘the fag on the crag.’ Horrible, I know, but he isn’t the only one with a nickname.
Still taking advantage of the day, we walked along the Canal Bank to find the ‘the crank on the bank,’ known to some as the statue of poet Patrick Kavanagh. The other girls with me, Jill, Jenna, and Elizabeth, enjoyed the walk too I think. We’re all
literature lovers so it was fun seeing these houses and finding the statues. Jenna had a lot of fun as she posed exactly like the statues and had her picture taken. While we were snapping photos of Kavanagh, an older man stopped to talk to us and said he knew the poet. We aren’t quite sure if he really did, but he was old enough. He told us where Kavanagh had lived and stories about drinking with him in the pubs. To him, Kavanagh was a character, but it’s quite possible he knew him and drank with him. Like most writers in Dublin, he frequented the pubs a lot.
Over all, it was a grand day. I couldn’t believe how slowly time passed and how much I was able to see! And I really felt like I covered the length of the city. I’m slowly crossing off the last few things from my list, it’s hard to believe my time here is coming to an end. Next week, we’ll find the Joyce statue.